For those of us who grew up in the rolling hills of rural Western New York, locally sourced cheese and ice cream were staple treats. Cheese curds, extra-sharp cheddar, and rich frozen custard … hungry yet?

Dairy farming developed quickly in Western New York during the 19^th century, bolstered by lush pastureland and reliable water sources. When milk production on small family farms exceeded neighborhood demands, small home cheese and butter businesses sprang up to use the milk before it went bad. Spoilage was relatively fast in the days of no or poor refrigeration. When the Genesee Valley Canal was in operation, farmers could easily access the transportation needed to get their cheese to market. As time passed, farmers and businessmen alike recognized the potential of producing cheeses on a larger scale for the retail markets, reaching more urban areas. The railroad was faster and provided access to many new locations after the canal was closed. Allegany County led the way in the 1870s, and home businesses gave way to small cheese factories, and many dotted the landscape of rural New York.

Cuba, New York, was ideally situated as a cheese hub as it had access to the Genesee Valley Canal in earlier days, and then the W.N.Y. & P Railroad came through in the 1880s. In 1896, when John Minard, the famous historian of Allegany County, published his magnum opus on the county’s history, he reported that Cuba had five cheese factories, using the milk from 2,000 cows. It was second in the state for cheese production, behind Utica, New York, the leading producer at that time. Cuba’s three main cheese wholesalers were Ackerly, Sill & Co., George H. Harris & Co., and Demcey & Sibley. Ackerly, Sill & Co. built a state-of-the-art refrigeration facility in 1894, using the leading technology of the time. The building was 76 feet by 36 feet and three stories. Huge blocks of ice cut from Cuba Lake were stacked in ice chambers tiered in such a way on the second and third floors as to keep a consistent temperature during the summer heat and winter’s cold. The system was efficient enough to be used until the 1930s. They could store up to 20,000 boxes of cheese with 400 to 500 tons of ice, keeping everything at the proper temperature.

Cuba wasn’t producing just any cheese but high-quality cheddar of varying colors, sharpness, and dryness. Cheese requires constant care by salting and turning, removing just the right amount of moisture dependent upon whether its destiny is hard, semi-hard, soft, or crumbly. When mature, the block was covered with a protective coating of paraffin. These companies purchased young cheeses from smaller producers in the area and ripened them in their facilities in Cuba. The market for Western New York cheeses had continued growth, pleasing consumers with its distinctive flavor, which comes from the feed and water the cows of the region ate. The cheese ripened faster and was sharper than cheddar from other areas, a plus for the producers.

Ackerly, Sill & Co. sold 400,000 – 500,000 boxes of cheddar a year in the 1890s, claiming they produced the “best white cheese in the world.” The other two companies flourished, too, with well over a million pounds of cheese riding the rails to market every year.

It stands to reason that Cuba would also have the world’s highest milk-producing cow in the world at this time, which Minard highlights in his history of Cuba. Pietertje II, a Holstein-Friesian cow calved April 25, 1877 in Friesian, Holland was sold to a farmer in Massachusetts. The cow was then purchased by Dallas Whipple of Cuba in 1884. This fine bovine produced 30,318 pounds of milk in one year—over 15 tons in 365 days. In just one day, she gave 112 pounds of milk during this banner year, and the record was documented by twelve observers who signed affidavits. Mr. Whipple was offered $10,000 for her, which was refused, but finally, Pietertje II was sold for a very high, undisclosed price. It was a package deal with six of her offspring included. Pietertje III, a record-breaking milk producer herself, and Pietertje II’s son, Holland King, a sought-after bull whose services required an unheard-of $500 fee, went to a new owner. Also in the deal were four other offspring.

The cheese businesses had continued success into the 20^th century. By 1912, the Cuba cheesemakers set the U.S. price of cheddar every week during a meeting at the Kinney Hotel in the village. Prices increased as Europe went to war in 1914, and the demand for cheese and condensed milk to feed soldiers and civilians skyrocketed. Borden Condensed Milk purchased the Howell Condensory plant in 1916, and by April 1918, they directed fluid milk to the local cheese-making efforts.

Partners came and went within the cheese companies. Ackerly & Sill became Ackerly & Renwick to Ackerly & Windsor. In 1941, I. Van Zwanenberg purchased the business, renaming it the Cuba Cheese & Trading Co., Inc. There were mergers with other cheese enterprises in Cuba until, finally, the company was centralized, closing 22 small factories around the area.

A new facility was built in 1956, and a new storage building in 1963. With centralized operations and the amount of milk handled, the company faced a new challenge: whey disposal. Whey, the clear liquid that separates from the curds in the cheese-making process, was abundant and malodorous and, as you might conclude, unpopular with neighbors. Creativity came into play with the construction of a new facility to dry the whey and grind it into a powder, which was then sold to ice cream companies and bakeries.

New products came along during the 1960s including Old York cheese spread, a combination of sharp and fresh cheeses. Then mozzarella, provolone, and flavored cheeses appeared on the shelves. In 1976, the Cuba Cheese store opened for business in a portion of the old refrigeration building. By 1991, the Empire Cheese, Inc. company decided to exit the retail business, selling the building to Jeff Bradley. The store has been remodeled and expanded over the years, and today sells a wide variety of cheeses and goods from around the world, but the focus is on New York cheese. They also handle a brisk mail-order business, so if you’re anxious to try that distinctive cheddar from Cuba, you’ll find it online. There’s also the Cuba Cheese Museum at 12 West Main Street to visit and whet your appetite for cheese shopping.

Although New York reigned as the king of cheese for many years, today, the state is fifth in production, and Wisconsin and California take first and second, according to 2022 statistics. But statistics don’t give the whole story, as those of us who love New York sharp cheddar can attest. It’s distinctive in flavor and texture—wonderful with warm apple pie or a glass of wine–why it’s simply the best.

Resources:

Genesee Valley Events 1668-1986, Irene A. Beale

Allegany County History, John S. Minard

Cuba Cheese Shoppe, cubacheese.com

Cuba Cheese Museum

Cuba NY Patriot 1998, History of Cheese

Cuba Patriot Jan. 1941, Cuba Cheese is New Name

Times Herald, Olean NY, June 1913 Cuba Cheese Market is Flourishing

Democrat & Chronicle, May 2, 1892, Cheese Report